Magazine article The New Yorker

Tables for Two

Magazine article The New Yorker

Tables for Two

Article excerpt

249 W. 49th St. (582-0460)--"I'm Tina and that's Gino," says the lady bartender with swept-up blond hair, nodding to a grinning waiter in a powder-blue shirt. The welcome-to-the-family introductions go down as easily as everything else does here, thanks to the knowing amiability of the place's owner, Frank Pellegrino, Jr., who was weaned on the good red sauce at Rao's, his parents' celebrity joint in East Harlem. Baldoria may be only eighteen months old, but with its roomy booths, centrally located jukebox, and wall-to-wall photographs of children, relatives, and show-biz types (the most recognizable is Raquel Welch in cave-girl attire, circa 1965) it has the air of a theatre-district classic that's been around longer than anyone can remember.

The menu is a primer--updated and distilled--in the sort of casually regional Italian-American fare that James Beard had in mind when he quipped about "food that never lets you see the pattern on the plate. …

Search by... Author
Show... All Results Primary Sources Peer-reviewed

Oops!

An unknown error has occurred. Please click the button below to reload the page. If the problem persists, please try again in a little while.