Magazine article Sunset

Food Guide: 25

Magazine article Sunset

Food Guide: 25

Article excerpt

77 FORTUNES TOLD. David Jung gets credit for making the first fortune cookie, in 1916 in Los Angeles.

78 MILK IN A CAN. Evaporated cow's milk was first successfully canned in 1899 in Washington by Carnation. John Meyenberg, grandson of a partner in that "sterilized cream" project, went on to can goat's milk in California.

79 WESTERN WINES, BEFORE AND AFTER. Amazingly, 183 bonded wineries-177 in California, 2 in Colorado, 1 in Washington, and 3 in Wisconsin-survived Prohibition (19191933). Now there are at least 960 bonded wineries in the West.

80 RECIPE EXCHANGE RATE. Since February 1929, more than 5,000 recipes from Sunset readers have made the grade in our test kitchens and appeared in Kitchen Cabinet, a monthly reader-exchange column. The payoff per recipe in 1929 was $1; in 1998, $50.

LITERARY LIONESS.

In the late '60s, Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher (1908-1992) moved from her old Victorian in St. Helena, California, to a book-lined, two-room cottage on a knoll in Glen Ellen. Here she often entertained Sunset writers. Part of the bargain was food from Sunset's kitchen. One of her favorites was this salad-she loved the way the mustard seed popped.

Lentil and Seed Salad for MFK Fisher Prep and cook time: About 1 hour Notes: Garnish with more lemon slices and chopped green onions. Makes: 6 servings

1. Sort 1 pound (about 2 cups) lentils and discard debris. Rinse and drain lentils.

2. In a 3- to 4-quart pan, combine lentils, 6 cups fat-skimmed chicken broth, 1/2 teaspoon cumin seed, 2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger, 3 tablespoons mustard seed, 1/4 cup rice vinegar, and 1/2 lemon, thinly sliced and seeded.

3. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cover and simmer until lentils are tender to bite, about 45 minutes. Drain, reserving liquid. Let both mixtures cool.

4. Add to lentils 1 cup chopped green onions (including tops), about 1/2 cup reserved liquid (enough to moisten salad), and salt to taste.

Per serving: 314 cal., 7% (22 cal.) from fat; 28 g protein; 2.4 g fat (0.2 g sat.); 48 g carbo (9.1 g fiber); 61 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

82 SHOP TILL YOU DROP. In 1937 Hollywood's Ranch Market became the first supermarket to keep its doors open round the clock.

82 PRE-PESTOMANIA. In 1946 Seattle's Angelo Pellegrini (1903-1991), author, cook, and gardener, shared his pesto recipe with Sunset.

83 TASTEMAKERS: ONE STATE, TWO WORLDS. In the '40s the McDonald brothers began selling hamburgers in San Bernardino, California. In 1971, Alice Waters opened Chez Panisse in Berkeley. The first event blazed trails in standardizing ingredients; the second sought and supported the best food resources and eschewed standardization.

84 OREGON GIANT. One maxim of James Beard (1 903-1985) was to honor the quality of food by preparing it simply and with care. One of his favorite ways to cook beef, surprisingly, was to boil itand the cut he used was tenderloin. It makes perfect sense if you want a quick version of roast beef to slice and serve cold.

James Beard's Boiled Beef Prep and cook time: About 30 minutes, plus at least 1 hour to chill

Makes: 6 or 7 servings 1. Trim as much fat as you can from a 1 1/2- to 1 3/4 pound center-cut beef tenderloin. With cotton string, tie beef crosswise at 1- to 11/2-inch intervals to make a compact roll (it should be about 3 in. thick).

2. In a deep 2 1/2- to 3-quart pan over high heat, bring 5 cups fat-skimmed beef broth to a boil. Add beef to the pan and cover. Simmer, turning meat over frequently, until it feels bouncy-firm when pressed and is 1 00 on a thermometer or pale red in center of thickest part (cut to test), 20 to 25 minutes.

3. Lift beef from broth; reserve broth for other uses. Cover and chill beef at least 1 hour or up to 2 days. Slice thin and remove string. Per 3 ounces: t so cal., 46% (88 cal.) from fat; 24 g protein; 9.8 g fat (3.7 g sat.); 0 g carbo (0 g fiber); 54 mg sodium; 71 mg chol. …

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