Magazine article The Spectator

A Grand Tour in a Glass

Magazine article The Spectator

A Grand Tour in a Glass

Article excerpt

What a challenge. To travel across Italy in an afternoon of wines. I arrived at the soaring spaces of Lindley Hall in Victoria, where Berry Bros & Rudd had assembled 43 growers from 11 regions for its Grand Tour, Italy 2013.

Master of ceremonies David Berry Green strolled among the tables tasting and gossiping, introducing old friends to new. An Englishman living in Barolo, Piedmont, David is a lean, towering figure who looks like the youthful Jeremy Irons.

His passion is infectious. After chatting to him for ten minutes, I felt I'd watched a documentary about Italy. Wine, he told me, was imperial Rome's secret weapon.

The Romans conquered with the sword but pacified with the grape. Defeated tribes were taught to lay out vineyards, to plant and harvest, to ferment and blend and savour. …

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