Magazine article The New Yorker

Tables for Two: Foragers City Table

Magazine article The New Yorker

Tables for Two: Foragers City Table

Article excerpt

Open Tuesdays through Saturdays for dinner and weekends for brunch. Entrees $22-$26. Prix fixe $38.

TABLES FOR TWO

FORAGERS CITY TABLE

--Amelia Lester

300 W. 22nd St. (212-243-8888)

It seems strange to say that the best thing at a place that specializes in juice cleanses is the porchetta, but Foragers Market and Table encapsulates the contradictory nature of the New York diet, serving quality food that feels "healthy," and is often local and organic, but with none of that dull avocado-based asceticism. The Table, a sit-down restaurant, is an offshoot of the Market, a gourmet grocer, which opened first in Dumbo and in 2012 expanded to Chelsea. In addition to the three-day juice cleanse and the panoply of expensive condiments (sixteen-dollar peanut butter, fourteen-dollar Sriracha), Foragers sells vegetables, herbs, and eggs from a dedicated farm in Canaan, New York.

A list of other regional suppliers is on the back of the menu, but the Foragers farm salad will tell you everything you need to know: it doesn't rely on a gimmicky or heavy dressing but, rather, on a barely discernable sherry vinaigrette, so the greens still crunch, and the sunflower sprouts remain springy. It makes a strong case for eating locally, supported by the devilled Foragers Farm eggs, the deliciousness of which depends not on paprika or truffle oil or bacon bits but on the eggs themselves, which give a clean bite and a grassy taste, like they were plucked from a particularly clever chicken this morning. (The farm delivers to the restaurant twice a week, so they might have been. …

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