Magazine article The New Yorker

Joe and Pat's

Magazine article The New Yorker

Joe and Pat's

Article excerpt

1758 Victory Blvd., Staten Island (718-981-0887)--Best-pizza arguments may be as tedious as they are futile--there's the Patsy's contingent, the Grimaldi's contingent, and those lucky few who claim to know the exact identity of Original Ray--but the honor of being nominated, at least, should go to this semi-legendary pie-and-slice operation on Victory Boulevard in the Castleton Corners section of Staten Island. A post-fire renovation four years ago gave the dining area an Artie Bucco sheen--cream color-washed walls, framed prints of grapevines and ancient urns--but the place still has a little Tony Manero left over. A few weeks ago, on Good Friday, you had cops on lunch break, waitresses on loan from the Wagner High cheerleading squad, and counter guys grooving to the Bee Gees' "More Than a Woman" as they tossed the dough. Joe Pappalardo, the owner, whose salt-and-pepper hair system deserves to be mentioned on the chalkboard alongside the specials, greeted the regulars, most of whom seemed to be named Joe, too. (Pat Pappalardo, Joe's brother, left the business in 1974 to start up a Century 21 real-estate office down the street. …

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