Magazine article Sunset

A New Leaf

Magazine article Sunset

A New Leaf

Article excerpt

Mild, sweet savoy will make you a cabbage convert.



Savoy cabbage is mild and tender even when raw, making it ideal for this light accompaniment to rich sablefish. The recipe is also excellent with 4 boned trout fillets, and the slaw tastes good with chicken or pork too.

2 ½ tsp. fennel seeds

1 ¼ tsp. kosher salt, divided

¾ tsp. pepper, divided

4 skin-on sablefish (black cod) fillets, each about 6 oz. and Vi in. thick; or use 4 skin-on trout fillets

1 medium fennel bulb with a lot of feathery greens attached

5 cups very thinly sliced savoy cabbage (from a 1-lb. cabbage)

5 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided

Zest of 1 lemon

3 tbsp. lemon juice

1 tsp. orange zest

1 orange, cut into segments*

Vi cup sliced chives, divided

1. Toast fennel seeds in a 12-in. nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Set aside l/i tsp. Finely grind remaining seeds with 3A tsp. salt and Va tsp. pepper in a mortar or clean coffee grinder. Rub mixture evenly all over fish and set aside.

2. Chop enough fennel greens to make 3 tbsp. Tear off any remaining small fronds; set aside. Trim and discard fennel stalks and any tough outer layers from bulb. Cut bulb in half lengthwise, core, and slice very thinly crosswise.

3. In a large bowl, combine cabbage, sliced fennel, and chopped fronds.

4. In a small bowl, whisk together 3 tbsp. oil, the lemon zest and juice, orange zest, reserved 'A tsp. whole fennel seeds, and remaining Va tsp. salt and *A tsp. pepper. Pour dressing over cabbage mixture and toss with your hands until well combined. Add orange segments and 3 tbsp. chives and toss gently. Set aside.

5. In the frying pan, heat remaining 2 tbsp. oil over medium-high heat. Add fish skin side down (it may spatter) and cook, occasionally tipping pan and basting flesh with oil, until skin is well browned and crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Reduce heat to low and continue cooking and basting until flesh is no longer translucent in center (cut to test), 3 to 4 minutes longer. If fish is thicker than *A in., or if it isn't done yet, cover pan and cook 5 to 7 minutes more.

6. Spoon slaw onto 4 plates. Top each mound with a fish fillet. Sprinkle with reserved fennel fronds and remaining 1 tbsp. chives.

* To segment orange, cut off peel and outer membrane, following curve of fruit. Then cut segments (also called suprêmes)free from inner membranes.

PER SERVING 466 Cal., 69% (321 Cal.) from (at; 23 g protein; 36 g (at (6.6 g sat.); 16 g carbo (6.4 g fiber); 611 mg sodium; 69 mg chol. GF/LC



Think mac 'n' cheese-but with vegetables instead of noodles. This gratin is a warming winter side dish, though it's so good you might be tempted to call it dinner.

About 4 tbsp. butter, divided

1 small head savoy cabbage (about 1 Vi lbs.), cored and cut into 8 wedges

About ¾ tsp. kosher salt

About ½ tsp. pepper

1 garlic clove, chopped

1 ½ tsp. chopped fresh thyme leaves, plus thyme sprigs

¼ tsp. nutmeg

1 tbsp. flour

1 cup heavy whipping cream

¾ cup shredded aged gouda cheese*

½ cup fresh bread crumbs

1. Butter a shallow 2-qt. baking dish (about 8 by 11 in.) and preheat oven to 400°.

2. Melt 2 tbsp. butter in a sauté pan* or large frying pan over medium-high heat and add cabbage wedges cut side down. …

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