Magazine article The New Yorker

Tables for Two: Tuome

Magazine article The New Yorker

Tables for Two: Tuome

Article excerpt

TABLES FOR TWO

TUOME

Open daily for dinner. Entrees $23-$49.

536 E. 5th St. (646-833-7811)

You may never be certain you are saying the name of this restaurant correctly. Vaguely foreign, it is pronounced "TOE-mee," which is how the chef Thomas Chen's parents, immigrants from China, said his nickname, Tommy. Chen, thirty years old, is a New York native and has cooked at Commerce and Eleven Madison Park; now he has his own ingredient-driven, sans-serif venture. As is the case with so many young people striking out on their own, his first quarters, in the East Village, are tight, and the two spare dining rooms reflect the neighborhood's no-frills sensibility. The food is fusion with a straight face--"contemporary American" with strong Asian influences in every dish. …

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