Magazine article The New Yorker

Tables for Two: Rebelle

Magazine article The New Yorker

Tables for Two: Rebelle

Article excerpt

TABLES FOR TWO

REBELLE

218 Bowery (917-639-3880)

Open for dinner Mondays through Saturdays. Entrees $12-$24.

There's something delicious about the idea that a restaurant in Paris run by a bunch of Americans is elevating modern French cooking. That place, Spring, is known for its precisely composed plates, which, even as they toy with ashes and foams, skirt fuss. Now a chef who ran its kitchen, Daniel Eddy, has come home to his native New York. At Rebelle, on the Lower East Side, Eddy has, in a very short time, become a flag bearer for the newly formal strain of downtown dining. Rebelle is one of those places that regard the wine with as much seriousness as the food, with a list that verges on a tome, and a sommelier eager to show off the funkier corners of his cellar. The waiter, meanwhile, is more focussed, and asks that each diner pick one dish from each of the courses. Stern, sure--but also a source of relief, a welcome bit of bossiness for diners accustomed to juggling small plates that arrive on the kitchen's idiosyncratic schedule. …

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