Magazine article The New Yorker

Tables for Two: Shuko

Magazine article The New Yorker

Tables for Two: Shuko

Article excerpt

TABLES FOR TWO

SHUKO

Open for dinner Mondays through Saturdays. Omakase $135; kaiseki $175.

47 E. 12th St. (212-228-6088)

There's no menu at Shuko. You can either get a lot of sushi, which is the omakase option, or slightly less sushi along with some "composed" dishes, the kaiseki. Either way, most of it is prepared and delivered over the counter by Jimmy Lau or Nick Kim, the owners and head chefs, who used to work at the city's priciest restaurant, Masa. The two of them understand the rich well enough to know that the only thing they like more than spending money is getting something for free. That would explain the service--is it paranoia, or are the high rollers getting more fish?--but also, following an exquisitely refined meal, the bonus: apple pie, a gloriously unreconstructed hunk of it.

But there's serious work to be done before brown sugar and streusel. Out comes a parade of sushi, though the chefs identifying their creations don't always make themselves heard over Drake or Jay Z. …

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