Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Article excerpt

FOOD & DRINK

BAR TAB Dante

79-81 Macdougal St. (212-982-5275)

When the original Caffe Dante opened on Macdougal Street, in 1915, neighborhood Italians anointed it their second home. In the seventies, sidewalk tables faced Bob Dylan's front door. So when the beloved cafe closed this spring, and the sprightly Australian restaurateur Linden Pride promised a replacement with "aquatic delights" and "kicked-up" cocktails, such as a Pimm's cup "garnished extravagantly with 'salad,' " he became the neighborhood's de-facto villain. But on a recent evening at the revamped Dante, Pride was embraced by newcomers and locals alike. A woman in her sixties presented him with a decades-old photo of herself waitressing in the cafe. Nearby, a group of young professionals raced to order Negroni Coffee Swizzles--"tastes like tobacco," one said admiringly--before the Negroni happy hour ended. …

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