Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Article excerpt

FOOD & DRINK

BAR TAB

DUTCH KILLS

27-24 Jackson Ave., Long Island City (718-383-2724)

The Dutch Kills Civic Association features a windmill on its logo, reminding visitors that the area once had more farmhouses and fewer strip clubs. Behind a brown door on a blasted section of Jackson Avenue, a whip-thin saloon that bears the neighborhood's name is bringing back a version of the past, with the clink of hand-cut ice in tumblers and the waft of freshly cut orange peel. "We were here when there was nothing here," Natalie, a mixologist with a sleeve of tattoos, said on a recent Wednesday evening. "Now it's a destination bar. People come from all over the city." She turned to a pair of patrons: "Do you like your drink sweet? Sour? …

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