Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Article excerpt

FOOD & DRINK

BAR TAB MACAO TRADING CO.

311 Church St. (212-431-8642)

What does a divine dragon have to do with a drunken one? According to Chinese folklore, the blood of the former saved an entire village from the plague, spurring the ancient ritual of the annual Drunken Dragon festival. At Macao Trading Co., a plush take on the Portuguese colony turned Chinese gambling capital, the Drunken Dragon's Milk is a deceptively potent concoction of young-coconut puree and green-tea-infused vodka. Created by the proprietors of Employees Only, the bar-restaurant suggests the sumptuous surfeit of old-world Shanghai (antique roulette wheels, birdcages, porcelain Buddhas), while also dipping into darker indulgences for which the sin city of Macau is known (opium pipes, sepia photos of provocatively clad women). …

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