Magazine article The New Yorker

Tables for Two: Le Veau D'Or

Magazine article The New Yorker

Tables for Two: Le Veau D'Or

Article excerpt



129 E. 60th St. (212-838-8133)

Open Mondays and Saturdays for dinner and Tuesdays through Fridays for lunch and dinner. Prix fixe $40-$52.

It's long been said among rabbinical mystics that only the existence of thirty-six righteous men keeps the wisest one from destroying the earth. One can feel that way about dining out in New York--that the persistence of a few eating places which exist serenely above the storms of foodie fashion are all we have to justify the entire enterprise, though it may be too much to dream of enumerating thirty-six truly righteous restaurants. In the Bloomingdale's neighborhood, the disappearance of the beloved Subway Inn, whose unforgettable neon sign seemed to have gone the way of all flash (only to reappear, miraculously, a few blocks east), makes the persistence of Le Veau d'Or all the more surprising, and, in its own way, mystically comforting.

Le Veau d'Or was, and remains, Manhattan French. Reviews written thirty-five years ago (it opened in 1937 and has changed hands only a few times since) confirm its unwavering nature: those same banquettes, the same Paris street signs, and a bar up front where a few people murmur and drink vermouth. Men in sweaters and women in longish skirts make up the clientele these days, and, if they seem not exactly meatpacking-district chic, they still lean into each other happily on a cold night, obviously in the presence of a treat.

The menu is mostly unchanged, too--but does this make it timeless or merely dated? …

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