Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Article excerpt

FOOD & DRINK

BAR TAB MR. FONG'S

40 Market St. (646-964-4540)

Under the Manhattan Bridge, a few feet from the jumble of cabbage crates and rodent-friendly remnants of Nissun wholesale seafood, there is a comely little alcove conspicuously lacking Chinese signage. As trim and purposefully attired as its cooler-than-thou patrons, this five-month-old bar has no door policy, but its congregation of asparagus-stalk-thin bodies slung with vintage Chanel ferrets out the interlopers just fine. On a recent Friday night, a statuesque bartender named Michaelangelo, with a topknot and a walrus moustache, gyrated to Althea & Donna's "Uptown Top Ranking" while a hollow-cheeked woman with a frosty bob posed for a selfie, sucking the lip of a man who had just downed a Popsicle-hued Tequila Zombie in one smooth arc. …

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