Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Article excerpt

FOOD & DRINK

BAR TAB

169 Bar

169 E. Broadway (646-833-7199)

This historically seedy institution has been open for more than a century as some variation of raucous drinking establishment--its reputation once earned it the nickname the Bloody Bucket. (In 1910, the Times reported that a server was stabbed in the heart at the address, in a dispute over soup.) Its current New Orleans-inspired format is enjoying its tenth year in a rapidly gentrifying part of Chinatown. On a recent Thursday, when asked about the burgeoning restaurant scene nearby (Dimes is around the corner, Mission Chinese Food next door), Charles Hanson, the bar's owner, claimed ignorance. "I don't go outside," he explained. And why would he? Inside is a cozy junk yard, orchestrated entirely according to his whims. There is a T-Rex mounted above the fireplace and a leopard-print pool table in the back; strings of party lights glow blue and red over the faces in the crowd, notably diverse for a neighborhood increasingly patronized by millennial cognoscenti who may or may not be employed. …

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