Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Article excerpt

FOOD & DRINK

BAR TAB

Sharlene's Bar

353 Flatbush Ave., Brooklyn (718-638-1272)

Sharlene's, tucked between a wings joint and a Dominican restaurant, has been a bar for as long as anyone can remember--first as O'Reilly's and then, starting in 1986, as Mooney's, before Sharlene's took over, seven years ago. Inside, a jukebox plays compilations like "Pure Disco" or "Holiday Songs that Don't Suck," which features six tracks from Gods of Fire's "Hanukkah Gone Metal"; "Addams Family" and "Star Trek" pinball machines flash in the corner. The vinyl stools and linoleum-topped tables fill up with grizzled drinkers, staid couples in their sixties, and flannelled young professionals, all scruff and asymmetrical haircuts. A reassuringly dependable list of beers is augmented by some left-field concoctions, like the Grown-Up's Chocolate Egg Cream: a sweet, tangy mix of vodka and Swiss Miss nostalgia. …

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