Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Article excerpt

FOOD & DRINK

BAR TAB

The Up & Up

116 MacDougal St. (212-260-3000)

Descending a dank set of stairs directly below the inconspicuous sign--a downward arrow tinted sprightly green and white--patrons of this Village watering hole might be momentarily surprised to find a neighborhood nook that, in keeping with its name, is unequivocally on the up and up. The floral wallpaper and framed ads from mid-century glossies may suggest your grand-aunt's living room--or as one newcomer put it, "a dive that got a shave and put on a clean pair of slacks"--but the real touch of propriety arrives in the form of an admonition printed on the menu to male patrons "not to introduce themselves to ladies." That could prove difficult in this neck of the woods: N.Y.U. territory, teeming with keen, inquisitive co-eds. …

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