Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Article excerpt

FOOD & DRINK

BAR TAB

The Ship

158 Lafayette St. (212-219-8496)

Some evenings ago, a pair of drinkers moored themselves at the bar of this cocktail lounge, at the bottom of a long staircase, reached through an unassuming black door on Lafayette Street, near Grand. There are no prizes for guessing the decorative theme of the Ship, but, thankfully, it's not so excessively nautical as to present a drowning risk: benches and booths are subtly upholstered with off-white sails, and large ships' vents hang from the two-story-high ceiling, like Cyclopean worms poking their heads in to check out the space. It's where Captain Haddock would meet Tintin, if he trimmed his beard and had a loft in SoHo. The conditions outside were cold and windy, so the Where There's Smoke ($14), a "steamed" mix of mezcal, pear liqueur, lemon juice, and agave syrup, was a pleasant way to warm up. …

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