Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Article excerpt

FOOD & DRINK

BAR TAB

Paris Blues

2021 Adam Clayton Powell, Jr., Blvd. (917-257-7831)

The other evening, Samuel Hargress, Jr., disfawdled himself from his perch outside this uptown jazz dive to greet a pair of newcomers. Hargress, who is eighty and has a penchant for immaculately tailored three-piece suits, opened the bar in 1969. Business, he says, is getting better every day. Inside, John Cooksey, the drummer that night, interrupted a Motown and blues set to mourn Prince's passing. In a balloon-decorated nook to the band's right, a group of Dutch tourists in moody T-shirts sampled the nightly free spread of chicken and rice. Nearby, a couple, feet curlicued beneath a satin-covered table, struck up a conversation about the oneness of God, and sipped Harlem Sugar Hill Golden Ale, whose label exhorts its drinkers to "taste the music." In his speech, Cooksey also paid tribute to Dennis Davis, a local drummer who passed away in early April. …

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