Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Article excerpt

FOOD & DRINK

BAR TAB

Yours Sincerely

41 Wilson Ave., Brooklyn (yourssincerely.co)

"Are you a scientist or a businessman?" a customer of this Bushwick establishment asked the bartender Darren Grenia, as he used an eyedropper to add a tincture of nutmeg into a Griffin beaker, finishing off an H-Bomb. It's a fair question; Grenia is a co-owner of the bar, which brands itself as a "cocktail laboratory," where all drinks, even the pina colada, are on draft and served in lab flasks. It would seem like the punkier stepsister of the Chinatown pharmacy-themed boite Apotheke, except that this bar suffers none of the other's pretension (bouncer, no-sneakers policy). It's a neighborhood joint, disguised as a gothic Victorian parlor room. The taps are porcelain doll heads, which stare like angelic witnesses to the evening's festivities. Drinks take seconds to serve, so Grenia can helm the bar alone, a fact that keeps prices down to dangerously palatable levels. …

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