Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Article excerpt

FOOD & DRINK

BAR TAB

Pouring Ribbons

225 Avenue B (917-656-6788)

Tucked behind an unassuming green door up a narrow staircase in Alphabet City is a carefully constructed refuge that takes its cocktails seriously. As late evening settles in, the Art Deco light fixtures dim to a pleasant yellow and the backlit bar refracts the glow through bottles of tinctures and bitters. A room full of couples in various stages of dating--from shy conversation to public petting--is an indication that, as one patron put it, the place is "really, really grownup." The themed menu is designed collaboratively by bartenders and other staff, and approved by a governing triad of longtime bartenders and restaurant consultants. This summer's offerings are drawn from the mythos and locales of the Silk Road. Each drink is mapped on a graph that delineates it along two scales: comforting to adventurous, spirituous to refreshing. …

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