Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Magazine article The New Yorker

Food & Drink

Article excerpt

FOOD & DRINK

BAR TAB

Harlem Nights

2361 Seventh Ave. (646-820-4603)

On a Harlem street corner, a black-shirted Rhadamanthus stands in front of a wooden facade, arms crossed, unfazed by the summer heat. Anyone who tries to enter the door behind him is greeted with a stern "excuse me" and a full pat-down. Inside, the atmosphere is loose and loud, augmented by an array of Southern-themed cocktails and a rolling soundtrack of Biggie and Usher. Harlem Nights is a monument to music and to easy living--the frame of a Weber grand piano has been nailed to an exposed-brick wall. What to drink? "The Weed Skirt is really good," a server yells over the music. "It's really, really strong." It arrives, tooth-hurtingly sweet, with cachaca and rum, in a petite Mason jar with a neon straw. For those who'd rather have something tart and spicy, the Summer Heat balances tequila, jalapeno, and cayenne pepper. …

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