Magazine article The New Yorker

King Tai

Magazine article The New Yorker

King Tai

Article excerpt

King Tai

1095 Bergen St., Brooklyn (718-513-1025)

A few weekends ago at King Tai, a short and stout bar in Crown Heights, some one-hit wonders from the early eighties played as people who weren't alive then considered what to drink. Above the bar, next to some metal elephant heads, was a chalkboard listing King Tai's five cocktails, named #1 through #5. "We can't all get a #3," an organizationally minded customer objected. "If you get a #1, I'll get a #3, and he'll get a #5." The cocktails, which are ten dollars apiece, make up for their minimalist names with particularly elaborate flavors that achieve mostly high highs, marred by only one low low. The #5 (Barr Hill gin, Cocchi Americano, Dimmi, grapefruit bitters) is a caustic confusion, but the #1 (Yaguara Cachaca Branca, apricot, Licor 43, grated nutmeg) was described by a drinker as "lovely stuff." More people seeped into the space, which is attractively decorated in a style that could be called nostalgia with a twist--it has a nineteen-forties tropical-malt-shop aesthetic. …

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