Magazine article The New Yorker

Pylos

Magazine article The New Yorker

Pylos

Article excerpt

128 E. 7th St. (212-473-0220)--In August, Christos Valtzoglou decided to let New Yorkers in on contemporary Greek dining habits. "Greek restaurants in this city are all the same: expensive Greek, mid-range Greek, or inexpensive Greek," Valtzoglou says. "I wanted to do home cooking from different regions of Greece." So he stocked his menu with pork medallions baked in a clay pot, a recipe from Epirus, feta-and-hot-pepper htipiti, from Macedonia, and pureed yellow split peas topped with capers, from Santorini.

Pylos is the collaboration of the bespectacled Valtzoglou; the designer Tony Chi, who has been gussying up Athenian nightspots for the Olympics; and the cookbook author Diane Kochilas, who consulted on the menu. Kochilas's meze-centric sensibility shows up in the phyllo pastries stuffed with pastourma and kefalograviera cheese, feta and herbs, or wild mushrooms. She's also responsible for the green-market flourishes among the classic Greek ingredients: the baby octopus comes seared with fennel and drizzled with orange and cracked olives. …

Search by... Author
Show... All Results Primary Sources Peer-reviewed

Oops!

An unknown error has occurred. Please click the button below to reload the page. If the problem persists, please try again in a little while.