Magazine article The New Yorker

Robert's Steakhouse

Magazine article The New Yorker

Robert's Steakhouse

Article excerpt

603 W. 45th St. (212-245-0002)--"Come see our harem rooms," the manager urged two couples sipping espresso at Robert's, the forty-two-seat restaurant on the mezzanine level of Penthouse's Executive Club, a ten-thousand-square-foot strip club at the "zenith of luxury entertainment." He pointed beyond the sunken bar a few feet away, where half a dozen men and as many blondes in G-strings were engaged in lap dances, to a silk curtain behind which patrons could enjoy greater privacy. "Here you have beautiful women, beautiful decor, beautiful food. Here you have the best of all worlds."

The club, an Art Deco monolith near the West Side Highway, opened in June, with a surprisingly creditable steakhouse (apparently not named for the publisher of Penthouse, Bob Guccione, Sr.). The chef Adam Perry Lang--a veteran of Le Cirque, Daniel, and Chanterelle--serves a menu with a calculated emphasis on meat and game (although the iceberg salad comes beautifully dressed, with lemon, olive oil, and blue cheese). …

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