Magazine article The New Yorker

Uncle Jack's Steakhouse;

Magazine article The New Yorker

Uncle Jack's Steakhouse;

Article excerpt

39-40 Bell Blvd., Bayside, Queens (718-229-1100)--This chummy restaurant, which has been open only since 1996, cultivates the atmosphere of a venerable New York institution--mahogany bar, pressed-copper ceiling, Sinatra on the sound system, velvety nineteen-twenties-speakeasy decor. (A nearly identical Manhattan branch has just opened at Thirty-fourth and Ninth.) The menu is pleasingly classic, presented on gilt-framed chalkboards and explained by optimistic tuxedo-wearing captains who know the answers to questions like "How much surf and turf can two New York Jets players consume?" For appetizers, there are lamb-chop "popsicles," sprinkled with bread crumbs, garlic, and rosemary and melting off the bone; bluepoint oysters; nostalgic shrimp cocktail; and a deliciously yielding Buffalini mozzarella in a balsamic reduction sauce.

You might be full already, but you'll have to persevere. (Most diners go home with a bag of leftovers.) Porterhouse for two is the specialty, but there's also the "Flintstone chop"--prime rib with a long bone and a hunk of meat on the end; ruby-red filet mignon, presented with a sprig of rosemary; and sake-massaged Kobe beef. …

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