Magazine article The New Yorker

D'amico;

Magazine article The New Yorker

D'amico;

Article excerpt

309 Court St., Brooklyn (718-875-5403)--"What's your problem?" Joanny D'Amico says by way of greeting to a blond woman in a snow-white coat by the open barrels of coffee beans. "What do you need? What? What?" From 7:30 a.m. to the dinner hour, the owners of this third-generation coffee shop keep moving through their onetime superette, from the sandwich counter to the espresso machine, from the oven in back to the big red roaster by the door, grinding beans and chatting with the different shifts of neighborhood coffee drinkers--the librarian and the longshoremen and the O.T.B. guys, the St. Ann's Latin teacher with the Botticelli tattoo, the proprietors of the Chic Elegance salon next door, the mothers parked by their strollers and nursing their babies and their cappuccinos.

The D'Amico family has been roasting beans and greeting customers at this Carroll Gardens address since 1948, and while they do serve food here--muffins, bagels, bialys, ciabatta rolls, and sandwiches or heros to stay or to go--it's a coffee shop: mostly they've got food in case you get hungry while you're drinking coffee. And this is serious coffee, roasted in small batches, ground in blends of strong, stronger, and strongest (named after Cobble Hill, Park Slope, and Red Hook, respectively), and set out in a row of serve-yourself steel dis-pensers. …

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