Magazine article The New Yorker

Blue Hill at Stone Barns;

Magazine article The New Yorker

Blue Hill at Stone Barns;

Article excerpt

630 Bedford Rd., Pocantico Hills, N.Y. (914-366-9600)--The news, this spring, of the opening of Daniel and David Barber's co-venture with David Rockefeller in organic farming and dining was of sufficient promise to send normally immobile New Yorkers hitching rides to the ominously quiet and leafy wilderness of Westchester. The project, eight years in the making, involved reclaiming the mossy Stone Barns on the Rockefeller estate in Pocantico Hills (where an earlier generation of Rockefellers grew up, drinking milk from their own dairy) as an organic husbandry center, complete with a restaurant and one of the largest in-ground, organic-soil greenhouses on the East Coast, creating a single, mostly self-sustaining farming and dining experience--a realization of the new American cook's dream of a purely seasonal and truly local cooking, equal parts Petit Trianon and Chez Panisse.

The food is a delicious and unpretentious mix of French and American so, well, organically combined that it seems less like fusion than fission cooking--an explosive and happily outward style, without any fussy brooding on bilingual equations or crossovers. (And--very unFrenchly--unpolluted by cream or butter. …

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