Ireland's green beauty may leave a more lasting impression than its cuisine on some. But frequent visitors Charlotte and Stanley Fisher (Stanley was once a local lad) have high praise for the meals they enjoyed in the south coast city of Kinsale, County Cork, corroborating its local reputation as a gourmet capital. Charlotte, who appreciates an easy recipe that works well, passed along this Kinsale version of soda bread. It's made with whole-wheat flour, which another Irish buff friend of mine declared makes it brown bread. I'm sure such a fine point of semantics can be settled calmly over a foamy pint with a warm wedge of this hearty bread and a nice hunk of cheese.

Kinsale's Irish Soda Bread

PREP AND COOK TIME: 45 to 50 minutes

NOTES: If making bread up to 1 day ahead, cool, wrap airtight, and store at room temperature. To serve warm, unwrap and reheat on a baking sheet in a 325 deg oven for 10 to 15 minutes.

MAKES: About 2 pounds; 8 to 10 servings

2 1/2 cups whole-wheat flour

About 1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

3/4 teaspoon salt

2 cups buttermilk

About 1/3 cup salad oil

2 tablespoons light molasses or corn syrup

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