Magazine article The New Yorker

Franny's;

Magazine article The New Yorker

Franny's;

Article excerpt

295 Flatbush Ave., at Prospect Pl., Brooklyn (718-230-0221)--A pizzeria may seem like an unlikely place to be schooled in socially responsible consumerism, but the menu at Franny's offers a quick course in sustainable agriculture: milk (non-homogenized) from Evan's Farmhouse Creamery upstate, tomatoes from Bill Maxwell's Farm in New Jersey, pork from Iowa's organic Niman Ranch. The offerings are ever-changing, according to what appears at the market; recently there were crostini with a smear of garlicky chicken liver or piles of roasted cherry tomatoes, and pumpkin fritters, lightly battered and supremely fresh. The eggplant salad with ricotta achieved a melting creaminess, and wood-roasted octopus curled out of a heap of piquant olive-and-pistachio salsa.

"I'm just here for you, so take your time," a waitress assured a diner lingering over the menu one early-autumn night. Later, she brought out a sparkling red wine for an undecided guest to taste, saying, "If you don't like it, I won't be offended." The individually sized pizzas are cooked in a brick oven, hand-built by Gennaro Iadicicco, a third-generation oven artisan. When they arrived, flopping over the edges of the plates, the crust was thin and toothsome--as crisp as a cracker on the cheeseless clam-and-chili pizza, soft but still firm under the influence of the quattro formaggi. …

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