Magazine article Sunset

Noodling Around

Magazine article Sunset

Noodling Around

Article excerpt

International accord on dinner in a bowl

* As I've trekked through intriguing cities in Asia, such as Hong Kong, Kyoto, and Bangkok, I've noticed that the best-value restaurants feature noodles. They also offer great dining adventure-- there's no end to the kinds of noodles and presentations. After innumerable noodle houses, I've acquired a hunger for the savory-sour-salty balance of this hearty soup.

To simplify cooking it at home, I've shifted my shopping from Asian markets to supermarkets, substituting sour pickles for salted mustard greens, ground turkey for ground pork, and fettuccine for Asian noodles. But should this soup turn up in a Thai noodle shop, my guess is that few would discern it was plain old home cooking.

Green Onion Noodle Soup

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes MAKES: 4 main-dish servings

2 tablespoons sesame seed

2 teaspoons salad oil

1/2 pound ground lean turkey or ground lean pork

1/4 cup finely chopped sour pickles (cornichons or diffs) Peanut sauce (recipe follows)

6 cups fat-skimmed chicken broth

1 package (8 to 9 oz.) fresh fettuccine

2 cups chopped green onions (including green tops)

1/4 cup finely chopped roasted, salted peanuts

Thin green onion slivers, including tops (optional)

1. In a 5- to 6-quart pan over medium-high heat, stir sesame seed until lightly toasted, 6 to 8 minutes. Pour into a small bowl and set aside.

2. Add oil and ground turkey to pan; stir over high heat until meat is crumbled and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. …

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