Magazine article Sunset

Savory Spread

Magazine article Sunset

Savory Spread

Article excerpt

Salt cod brandade makes a comeback

Humble old dishes have a way of coming back with glory. Salt cod brandade, a homey blend of preserved cod and creamy mashed potatoes, traditional in southern Europe, is showing up on French-leaning restaurant menus all over. And the dried salt cod itself is readily available in Italian delis and gourmet supermarkets. With radishes and French bread, the spread makes a great appetizer.

Sait Cod Brandade

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 40 mm-utes, plus at least 1 day to soak fish

MAKES: 8 appetizer servings

NOTES: Salt cod (sometimes labeled baccalà or bacalao) must be soaked for at least 1 day-2 for milder flavor.

8 ounces dried salt cod (see notes)

1 onion (8 oz.), peeled and chopped

½ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves About 3 tablespoons butter

1 cup fat-skimmed chicken broth

1 pound thin-skinned potatoes, peeled and cut into ¾-inch cubes

½ cup whipping cream

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

¼ teaspoon fresh-ground pepper Salt

1 to 2 tablespoons drained capers About 2 tablespoons minced parsley

1. Rinse salt cod well under cool running water. Place in a 1½- to 2-quart jar and cover with water; cover jar airtight and chill 1 to 2 days (see notes), draining and replacing water at least six times. …

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