Magazine article The New Yorker

De Marco's Pizzeria

Magazine article The New Yorker

De Marco's Pizzeria

Article excerpt

146 W. Houston St. (212-253-2290)--Over the past few months, nervous anticipation has characterized discussions among pizza fiends about the quasi-expansion of Brooklyn's legendary Di Fara's into Manhattan. To begin with, there was the promise of pedigree--two of Domenico De Marco's children are in on the new venture, although they were forbidden to import the forty-year-old business's name. Last month, the pizza blog sliceny.com posted photographs from the two pizzerias taken the same afternoon, in order to compare the bottom-crust charring (Di Fara's proved slightly blacker, but the bloggers admitted the test had no bearing on the crust's crispness).

The good news is that the De Marco's slice is nearly as good as Di Fara's. It has the signature savory tomato sauce, like the one Domenico makes using herbs he grows in his shop windows, and each pie gets three kinds of cheese and a final drenching with olive oil before it hits the oven. But they've got some fundamental elements wrong. Domenico makes each pie fresh for customers, who watch as rapt as if it were sushi at Masa, pummelling a lump of dough into shape and futzing over the arrangement of mozzarella on top. …

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