Magazine article The New Yorker

Lo Scalco

Magazine article The New Yorker

Lo Scalco

Article excerpt

313 Church St. (212-343-2900)--Menu gimmicks don't much alter the eating. Whether dishes are organized by food group, animal habitat, or, as at Craft, method of preparation, eventually a plate of food comes, and you shovel it down. Still, gimmickry can concentrate the mind. At Lo Scalco, a new Italian place in Tribeca, eight categories of ingredient (artichoke, Dover sole, duck, etc.) are available in three courses: appetizer, pasta, and meat or fish. Frankly, everything looks promising on the page. To whittle it all down you might want to consider the Henry Ford approach: three people divvy up a category, so that one of you handles, say, the Dover-sole salad with string beans and walnuts, another the sole ravioli, and a third the roasted sole filet. There's also the Wade Boggs method: one person dines on sole, three courses of it, in all its guises. Or you can choose according to shape: create a "squiggly course," consisting of the sole salad (the sole strips as twisty as cheese sticks), the sole ravioli (each raviolo like an adolescent albino eel), and--a surprise from the tomato department--an arrangement of three different pastas with sauces made from yellow, green, and red tomatoes. …

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