Magazine article The New Yorker

Bouillabaisse 126

Magazine article The New Yorker

Bouillabaisse 126

Article excerpt

126 Union St., Brooklyn (718-855-4405)--When, in 1993, Neil Ganic opened Bouillabaisse on Atlantic Avenue, it was one of the few noteworthy restaurants in the neighborhood. By the time it closed, in 2003, that area, which includes Smith Street, had become the epicenter of Brooklyn dining. Now Ganic--once again in the vanguard of a burgeoning restaurant trend--has reopened close to the waterfront, a fifteen-minute walk from the old location. Unlike its somewhat dingy predecessor, here there are brushed saffron walls, stripy banquettes, high ceilings, and capacious windows.

The change of scene hasn't affected the menu, much of which is replicated from the first Bouillabaisse. Among the appetizers, the pear, poached beetroot red and adorned with Gorgonzola, is an old friend whose return will delight many. But there's a certain stodginess to the crab cake--perhaps the red-pepper aioli should be traded in for a note of citrus?--and one hopes that Ganic won't forget to try new things. His signature dish comes in two versions, the first of which, "bouillabaisse," is the more traditional, served in a saffron broth with dabs of rouille on large croutons at the edge of the dish. …

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