Magazine article The New Yorker

V Steakhouse

Magazine article The New Yorker

V Steakhouse

Article excerpt

10 Columbus Circle (212-823-9500)--Jean-Georges Vongerichten's latest establishment might just be Manhattan's first embarrassing piece of Vegas backwash, complete with a Cirque du Soleil-style soundtrack, red velvet upholstered chairs, and gilded fake trees. The diners are expensively dressed, in an out-of-town way: one evening a woman in furry apres-ski boots climbed into the lap of her date for an after-dinner make-out session, and the same night, during Christo's spectacle in Central Park, a family dined in matching orange tops. (Although the restaurant claims to provide a view of the Park, most tables actually look into a physical therapist's office across Sixtieth Street.)

Vongerichten's idea of updating the classic American steak house is to simply ignore its conventions--including the quaint notion that the steak should be especially good. Recently, a rare order came out medium, while a medium rare came out medium gray. You won't even want to send it back, since by this point in the meal you'll already be looking forward to leaving. The single-serving, sixty-six-dollar porterhouse, nearly twenty dollars more expensive than the priciest steaks at the best steak houses in town, is depressing. …

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