Magazine article The New Yorker

The Stanton Social

Magazine article The New Yorker

The Stanton Social

Article excerpt

99 Stanton St. (212-995-0099)--Never mind the name. This isn't one of those reclaimed opium dens or massage parlors but a glossy interloper with booths that dwarf the tallest diners, grating music, and a design scheme with a glass-fronted, ceiling-high wine rack and cylindrical glass chandeliers that seems better suited to SoHo. The Stanton Social has a tapas philosophy--small plates, meant for sharing, sent out in no particular order--but the ingredients are pulled from so many different cuisines that it can feel out of control. The menu offers little guidance other than three small boxes that mark off a raw bar that includes pristine oysters, caviar, and an optional shot of top-shelf vodka; a "slider" section featuring a noble little Kobe-beef hamburger; and an ill-conceived comeback, the Stanton Social Beef Wellington, a dish of filet mignon wrapped in foie gras and pastry and made soggy by its mushroom sauce. There are high points among the other offerings, but it's hard to guess what will work together.

There are pleasing choices, such as a pizza with figs and truffle honey and a nice enough wasabi-pea-crusted wild salmon. …

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