Magazine article The New Yorker

A

Magazine article The New Yorker

A

Article excerpt

947 Columbus Ave. (212-531-1643)--A is just above 106th Street, in a neighborhood whose trendier residents have taken to calling it SoHa (south of Harlem). Although the restaurant's name is derived from the A train--its logo is painted on a circular front window--the closest stop is several blocks away. Perhaps this is a ploy to keep people from finding the place, which tries to feed twenty-four in a mere two hundred square feet and is consequently always full. The kitchen is separated from the diners by a shower curtain, and the menu of French-Caribbean food is prepared with one burner and two convection ovens.

A's size determines almost everything about it, and the owners--Marc Solomon and his wife, Blue Grant--have thought creatively about what can be achieved in such quarters. A bring-your-own-bottle policy eliminates the need for wine storage, and the menu is minimal--usually about five appetizers, five entrees, and two desserts. The reliable delights of melted cheese are well represented in appetizers such as a hollowed-out Fuji apple filled with a Camembert fondue and finished with cinnamon, and a quail terrine with a Brie crust. …

Search by... Author
Show... All Results Primary Sources Peer-reviewed

Oops!

An unknown error has occurred. Please click the button below to reload the page. If the problem persists, please try again in a little while.