Magazine article Sunset

Bob Thompson on Wine: What Goes with Sausages?

Magazine article Sunset

Bob Thompson on Wine: What Goes with Sausages?

Article excerpt

Occasionally some quirk of chemical makeup makes perfect mates out of a wine and a food. Mostly, though, personal experience counts for more. Permit me to give you the sausage as an example.

In Alsace, sausages on a bed of sauerkraut--the famous choucroute garnie--usually demands Gewurztraminer (Trimbach, Domaines Schlumberger, Gisselbrecht), though some Alsatians would rather have Riesling or Pinot Gris. In the bistros of Paris, even more in the Burgundian countryside, sausages call for Beaujolais (rarely served with a label in Paris, mainly from Georges Duboeuf or Jean-Marc Aujoux here).

And in the Piemonte, when sausages are in or alongside a risotto, a glass of Barbera (Vietti, Domenico, Clerico, Pio Cesare) will be the companion at a majority of tables, though Nebbiolo would have proponents, and so would Dolcetto.

The sausages from any of the three regions differ only slightly. On the other hand, almost nothing of taste or texture joins the three wines together. The intensely spicy flavor and rich feel of Gewurztraminer could not be less like fresh-as-a-berry, lighter-than-air Beaujolais. …

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