Magazine article The New Yorker

Perry St; Tables for Two

Magazine article The New Yorker

Perry St; Tables for Two

Article excerpt

176 Perry St. (212-352-1900)-- Inside Jean-Georges Vongerichten's latest venture, which anchors the middle tower of Richard Meier's glass-sheathed celebrity housing projects on the West Side Highway, the most prominent features are load-bearing concrete columns (supporting, among the famously flipped lofts, Vongerichten's own home). Unlike the tarted-up V Steakhouse, at the Time Warner Center, Perry St is more spartan. There are no colors, no curves, and only eight entrees to choose from. And the best items, barely two months after opening, are the ones for which Vongerichten acts as a kind of curator of summer flavors.

Recent appetizers are inspired by the farmer's market. The heirloom tomatoes, paired with superior house-made mozzarella, were garnished with celery leaves and red-wine vinaigrette. There was a wonderful warm pickled peach with goat cheese on a frisee salad, and a savory dill broth over baby carrots and radishes. The forty-dollar starter of osetra caviar generously mounded over a slab of gently warmed hamachi was less local but still more a matter of careful placement than cooking.

The entrees involve greater effort from the kitchen, and the results are mixed. …

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