Magazine article Sunset

Tender Signs of Spring

Magazine article Sunset

Tender Signs of Spring

Article excerpt

Paul Bertolli is a master at bringing out the best in simple foods. After more than a decade as chef at Alice Waters's renowned Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Bertolli decided to follow his own heritage and moved down the road to Oliveto Restaurant & Cafe, in Oakland. Italian country dishes have captured his imagination. One evening he served a humble-looking but exceptionally fresh-tasting frittata as a first course. It struck just the proper note after a hectic day--enough so that I prepare this easy egg dish at home when in need of a really fast meal for a really tired body.

Spring Green Frittata

Cooking time: 6 to 8 minutes

Prep time: 8 to 10 minutes

Notes: Larger Swiss chard leaves will work, but they aren't as tender. Accompany the frittata with crusty bread and a green salad.

Makes: 1 main-dish serving or 2 first-course servings

2 to 3 ounces young Swiss chard leaves (5 to 6 in. long)

2 large eggs

1 tablespoon milk

2 tablespoons freshly grated parmesan cheese

2 teaspoons butter or olive oil

1/4 cup slivered young leeks or green onions (white part only)

Salt and pepper

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