Magazine article The New Yorker

Blaue Gans

Magazine article The New Yorker

Blaue Gans

Article excerpt

139 Duane St. (212-571-8880)--"I miss Le Zinc!" seems to be the most common pronouncement upon entering Blaue Gans, the prolific restaurateur Kurt Gutenbrunner's latest spot. But operating under the spectre of a dearly departed bistro doesn't seem to bother Gutenbrunner. He's practically begged for the comparison, given that he left the distinctive space--long zinc bar, vintage art and film posters--entirely intact. Perhaps he was hoping no one would even notice it was new. Before the restaurant opened, in early December, he widely proclaimed his intention to keep it "under the radar." Other elements in this strategy were no phone number, no menus, and no reservations. A phone number and menus have since appeared (a wise decision, in the latter case, given the tongue-twisting German names of all the dishes; the waiters can sometimes barely stammer out the specials, much less an entire slate of items).

But Blaue Gans also has an authentic sense of self, seemingly confirmed by the number of German-speaking diners. And even the English speakers get into it. With a word like Schweinsbraten (a rich, roasted pig's belly), who can resist attempting to roll it off the tongue? These are mostly traditional offerings, like goulash and Wiener schnitzel, but the chef, Martin Pirker, who also spent time in Gutenbrunner's kitchen at Wallse, creates a bit of surprise in every dish. …

Search by... Author
Show... All Results Primary Sources Peer-reviewed

Oops!

An unknown error has occurred. Please click the button below to reload the page. If the problem persists, please try again in a little while.