Newspaper article The Florida Times Union

Fish Sauce Was Anything but Roux-Tine

Newspaper article The Florida Times Union

Fish Sauce Was Anything but Roux-Tine

Article excerpt

Byline: Dan Macdonald, Times-Union food editor

Let me tell you about another meal that I had virtually nothing to do with.

Sunday, we had fresh fish in a flavorful red sauce. When I say fresh fish, I'm talking the fish was swimming around minding its own business just six hours earlier.

The boys on the street went offshore fishing Sunday. I was supposed to join them but a little daylight-saving time mishap left me high and dry. Hey, I don't blame the guys. Seven o'clock means seven o'clock. When it comes to fishing trips and tee times, I go with the adage: If you're early, you're on time. If you are on time, you're late. If you're late, don't bother showing up.

Anyway, my inability to set clocks forward saved me a harrowing day at sea. The guys took on a little water. Well, maybe more than a little. OK, they estimated they were 10 minutes away from sinking the boat. It was something about a bilge pump not working.

Actually, if I had been with them it never would have been so serious. The minute the deck got damp I would have been chirping that there was some sort of problem. When boating, my job is pretty much limited to fetching beer and bait, and telling the boys if we are sinking or not.

Nonetheless, the boat and crew returned safely to the neighborhood with three sheepshead and one flounder. Neighborhood chef John Doyle went about making fish in red sauce.

Over medium heat in a large frying pan, he sauteed 2 rough-cut onions, 3 diced cloves of garlic and 3 chopped stalks of celery. To that he added 1 cup each of red wine, Madeira, Marsala and chicken broth. Once that was heated,

2 (14 1/2-ounce) cans of whole tomatoes went in. As the tomatoes simmered, 1/4 cup of balsamic vinegar and the juice of half a lemon was added, as well as a few dashes of Tabasco sauce. …

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