Newspaper article The Evening Standard (London, England)

Food Spy

Newspaper article The Evening Standard (London, England)

Food Spy

Article excerpt


Restaurant bites

Bridget Jones might have been surprised, but the writing has long been on the wall for her Notting Hill canteen, 192. 'It was teetering gently for a while,' says Rowley Leigh, now legendary chef at nearby Kensington Place, who worked at 192 in its heyday, 'but the Bright Young Things have moved on to the Electric Brasserie and E&O.' After all, how can you compete with the sight of Jude Law and Sienna Miller snogging on an E&O banquette, as they were spotted doing last week.

Chef Henry Harris (above right), whose Knightsbridge restaurant Racine delights in serving up tripe, trotters, chitterlingsand the like, has invented a dish in honour of his favourite horror-film director, George A Romero. 'To mark the remake of Dawn of the Dead I've introduced Cervelles Romero,' announces Henry.

'Basically pan-fried calves' brains with blood oranges, capers and croutons.' Yummy.

Food Spy would like to extend birthday greetings to the legend that is Elena Salvoni, maitre d' at Elena's L'Etoile restaurant-in Charlotte Street.

The great lady will be 84 later this month and began her illustrious career in 1942. 'I tried retirement but I hated it,' she says. And the key to her long-lived success? 'I always treat everyone the same, whether they're the dustman or Lord Muck.' Hold the front page, the gastropub revolution has reached Acton. On Churchfield Road alone new openings include The Rocket, The Churchfield and soon The Dog and Duck. 'It's horrible,' says a resident from this West London outpost. 'You can no longer get a decent fight on a Saturday night.'

The next big thing...

Martha Greene, owner of Villandry, predicts...

'Healthy ethnic food will be big in the future.

And, since I come from New York where it's popular, I hope that Cuban and Mexican food is going to become more fashionable here. …

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