Newspaper article The Evening Standard (London, England)

Lifting the Lid on Our Passion for the Pickled; FOOD SPY

Newspaper article The Evening Standard (London, England)

Lifting the Lid on Our Passion for the Pickled; FOOD SPY

Article excerpt

Byline: CHARLES CAMPION

THERE was a time when anything pickled was associated with unmentionable food lurking in granny's pantry. Now, the humble jar stuffed with exotic preserves or delicacies has come into its own. Chefs are reaching for them to zap up their dishes. North African restaurants, such as Azou in Hammersmith, use pickled lemons to add a powerful tang to slow-cooked stews, while at Locanda Locatelli you may well come across pungent mustard fruits from Cremona. Meanwhile, at any Spanish restaurant worth its salt, including Moro, pickled piquillo peppers get pride of place.

The home cook should head for Brindisa, the Spanish delicatessen a few doors along from Moro in Exmouth Market, which is full of Iberian goodies. There are first-rate fruit nectars, top quality hams and jars of those elusive, top quality, piquillo peppers - perfect served with grilled fish or tins of white tuna fish. Mortimer & Bennett is a great place to go rummaging for good things in jars. …

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