Newspaper article The Florida Times Union

Enjoy Taste of Exotic at World Grill; Restaurant Worth Navigating Area's Construction

Newspaper article The Florida Times Union

Enjoy Taste of Exotic at World Grill; Restaurant Worth Navigating Area's Construction

Article excerpt

Byline: ERICA BURKS

You could have knocked me over with a feather when our server told us the World Grill on Beach Boulevard used to be a Perkin's restaurant. You certainly don't get the breakfast house vibe from the chocolate covered booths, creamy tan walls and skillful lighting. There is a full bar up front with some good local art on all of the walls, and I am pretty sure Perkin's doesn't offer Duck Breast with Ginger Plum Barbecue either.

But World Grill does, along with some other fairly exotic fare. We settled into one of the many white-clothed tables and looked over the menu. For starters, we had an absolute smorgasbord. While we waited, we checked out the soaring ceilings and nicely done stonework. Someone has a good eye for renovations.

Up first was the French Onion Soup ($4.95). The soup itself was good, a rich and beefy broth with caramelized onions and Gruyere cheese. However, the presentation is also worth a mention. The bowl for the soup is a hollowed out white onion, balanced in a bed of rock salt.

Our Signature Chicken Corn Chowder ($3.95) was a creamy chicken soup, seasoned nicely with red peppers, onions, carrots and corn. We also enjoyed the jalapeno corn stick served on the side.

The Vegetable Strudel ($5.95) was an absolute dream. Layers of roasted vegetables such as eggplant, zucchini and yellow squash were settled between sheets of phyllo and Boursin cheese. Grilled tomatoes and a chipotle buerre blanc sauce finished the dish, and we swooned over every bite.

None of us cared too much for the Crab Cakes ($6.95). They were bland, and even their appearance wasn't pleasing. They looked like Tater Tots on a plate. The Char-Siu Chicken Egg Rolls ($6.95) were another miss. With ingredients such as chicken, seaweed salad, cabbage and candied ginger, the egg roll sounded interesting but was served on the cold side, with the wrapper tasting uncooked.

However, the Duck Confit Samosas ($7.95) perked us right up. Small pillows were filled with pulled duck, sweet potatoes, bananas and Caribbean barbecue sauce and were then topped with a fantastic chutney made with caramelized corn and garlic. The presentation was beautiful as well, with the little triangles artfully arranged on a thin white platter and the chutney spooned on top.

Dinners arrived right on time, and the sheer volume of food on each plate stunned us. The table positively groaned under the collective weight of chicken, steak and fish dishes.

The best of the lot was the Chicken Breast with Apple Macadamia Nut Chile ($12.95). World Grill uses a wood-burning stove to roast meats, and the smoky flavor of the chicken breast paired beautifully with the sweet and spicy sauce. Yellow Balinese rice and a small serving of sauteed vegetables were served on the side.

Strangely enough, the Tandoori Chicken with Coriander Sauce ($12. …

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