Newspaper article The Evening Standard (London, England)

Easy Does It

Newspaper article The Evening Standard (London, England)

Easy Does It

Article excerpt

Byline: FAY MASCHLER

WEEK 17 GROUSE You need: this season's grouse (one per person), butter,oil, seasoning, wine and/or stock, watercress.

Time to cook: 20 minutes.

I NEVER thought I would hear anyone say it, but when I went to Allen's butchersin Mount Street to a celebration of the start of the grouse season, the newowners of this longestablished emporium announced that 2007 was a good year.What with the Sturm und Drang of the past few months, there was every reasonfor them to go in for the usual gloomwhich of course presages sky-high prices but they didn't.

Grouse are conveniently and deliciously portioned for one. When young, whichthey are at the moment, they should be roasted and served with bread sauce,fried breadcrumbs, watercress, rowan jelly and game chips. If theseaccoutrements sound too much trouble, just go with the watercress, wilted withpan juices.

Turn on the oven to 220C/gas mark 7. If the birds are trussed, untie them. Doaway with any bacon that has been lashed onit impinges too strongly on the delicate flavour. …

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