Newspaper article The Evening Standard (London, England)

Show Men; FASHIONFrom the New Way to Wear Denim to the Hottest Sneakers in Town, the Menswear Collections Have All Next Year's Trends Now. Simon Chilvers Reports

Newspaper article The Evening Standard (London, England)

Show Men; FASHIONFrom the New Way to Wear Denim to the Hottest Sneakers in Town, the Menswear Collections Have All Next Year's Trends Now. Simon Chilvers Reports

Article excerpt

Byline: Simon Chilvers

WARDROBING PRADA "Conservative, I would say," said Miuccia Prada backstage after her show in Milan. "Things to wear, not useless inventions."

This was a dark and excellent collection of Prada classics presented with trademark awkwardness but offset by essentially great product. Increasingly, designers are ensuring their collections for men, instead of tying themselves up in all sorts of trend knots, are focused on clothes a modern man wants/needs, such as a blouson jacket, a spring coat and an easy jumper. Basically, elevated staples, interestingly cut and crafted with imaginative detail that riff on a designer's signature handwriting.

In Paris, Lanvin similarly delivered a focused wardrobe edit of house signatures.

PINK LOUIS VUITTON Versace opened its show with a dusky pink suit. Marc Jacobs was flamingo a go-go while Kenzo offered macaroonpink knits. Though frankly nothing was quite as fierce as the brilliant pink jumpsuit delivered by Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton.

The designer's travels in Rajasthan had apparently led him to Sawai Jai Singh, the king who built Jaipur, India's pink city. "Pink is the navy of India," Jones knowingly quipped post-show, quoting legendary fashion editor Diana Vreeland.

Pink is not the only shade angling for business next summer either. Brights of orange, red and yellow also had a decent airing.

DENIM SAINT LAURENT The major news at the shows was the resurgence of denim on the catwalk. There were jeans on the runways of Prada, Gucci and Valentino, while AMI offered my chosen pair: faded with frayed deep turn-ups. Dior Homme and Kenzo offered double denim while Burberry cleverly remixed the denim jacket and Yohji Yamamoto layered denim up in headto-toe looks.

Suddenly, denim is interesting again. Plus, if you're not ready to pass up a skinny jean, Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent is willingly at your service. This season, for the first time, the designer also showed neat denim jackets - one loaded with studs and sparkles on its reverse looks like a definite hit in the making.

THE NEW SLOUCH HAIDER ACKERMANN Designers concur that a fluid coat, basically something lightweight with the waft factor, will be big next season. …

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