Newspaper article The Evening Standard (London, England)

La Vie En Rose; FASHION Ahead of Her Return to the Men's Catwalk, Design Star Martine Rose Talks Brexit and Beer Mat Trousers with Simon Chilvers

Newspaper article The Evening Standard (London, England)

La Vie En Rose; FASHION Ahead of Her Return to the Men's Catwalk, Design Star Martine Rose Talks Brexit and Beer Mat Trousers with Simon Chilvers

Article excerpt

SOME fashion visionaries are overnight sensations. Others are a slow burn. Martine Rose is the latter. She might have been designing since 2002, and a name muttered among industry insiders for seasons, but until last year her work had somehow slid under the mainstream radar.

In the run-up to unveiling her latest collection at London's men's fashion week next week, Rose is holding court in her studio near Finsbury Park. She talks about "raver wide-boys", the Government and her position on "dad chic". Plus, there is her role as a consultant for Balenciaga and how she's buoyed from recently meeting one of her heroes, Jamaican music producer Lee "Scratch" Perry. It's all go.

Decked out in a pair of very Londonappropriate double-decker-bus-red cords, a grey marl sweat and a necklace that on closer inspection reveals itself as a tiny penis with pearl balls, the designer is offering tea.

Preparations for next season are going well. The latest collection is bigger with new categories including shoes, jewellery and eyewear, all of which will be music to the ears of her now 100-plus stockists. But who is this "raver wideboy" she speaks of? "I see this character as a development from my autumn/ winter 2014 man, who was sort of a crusty, a kind of end-of-the-rave-eratype guy. And he's a little bit of a barrow boy too," she reveals. "He's that guy you find sexy even though he's maybe wearing crazy s**t."

The Nineties club scene is forever a reference for Rose, who graduated from Middlesex University in the early Noughties. She remembers a light-bulb moment when she was nine. She would go to her nan's house on Sundays and thenhead to Clapham Common where her older cousin Darren would be raving with his mates. "I remember feeling, 'This is it, I don't know what it is but I am into this.'" Her AW18 collection features old rave flyers stitched onto gingham shirts and T-shirts. There are trousers made up of fabric beer mats, and football tops.

London characters are Rose's style pin-ups; couriers, builders, chefs. Her last show in the capital for SS18 (she took a season off from showing in Continued on Page 32 Continued from Page 31 January following the birth of her second child) saw the fashion pack descend on a climbing wall centre in Tottenham where she showed cycling shorts, hiker anoraks and logo sweats. …

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