Newspaper article The Evening Standard (London, England)

Comeback Kid Proenza Schouler Gives Masterclass in True Modernity; NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Newspaper article The Evening Standard (London, England)

Comeback Kid Proenza Schouler Gives Masterclass in True Modernity; NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Article excerpt

Byline: Karen Dacre Fashion Editor in New York

NEW York Fashion Week breathed a collective sigh of relief as it welcomed purveyor of Downtown cool Proenza Schouler back into the fold.

Returning to their home fashion capital after two seasons on the schedule of Paris's salubrious haute couture week, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez chose a Wall Street venue for their comeback.

Their collection was undoubtedly the most creatively inspired shown at fashion week thus far.

Having long been considered among Manhattan's most accomplished couturiers, Proenza Schouler decamped to Paris with designs on harnessing a highspending customer.

But the designers made the decision to return to their side of the Atlantic when they realised that creating fewer clothes for higher-paying clients was limiting their commercial reach.

Accordingly their latest showcase, decidedly at ease on New York soil, was all about clothes that speak to many, with ubiquitous fabrics including denim, washed cotton, leather and suiting material giving the collection its foundation.

This was no exercise in dumbing down. Instead it was a masterclass in true modernity, with "humble" wardrobe staples remodelled for the 21st-century woman. Pencil skirts, tiered dresses in bleach denim, and suit jackets layered over delightfully oversized jean shirts were among the many highlights.

Focusing on a truly contemporary fit, reflective of a contemporary fashion consumer who demands a fluidity where gender is concerned, Hernandez and McCollough offered up wide-leg jeans, languid trench coats and butter leather shirts. …

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